Partly. A smile lines cream can improve fine lines and skin texture around the fold, especially one containing a retinoid, but it can’t flatten a fold caused by sagging or volume loss. In a 2007 trial, 0.4% retinol improved fine wrinkles after 24 weeks. Daily sunscreen protects that progress. Expect gradual change over months, not days.
This guide is part of our smile lines overview. It covers what creams, serums and patches can realistically do.
Ingredients that work
Retinoids have the strongest evidence for fine lines; sunscreen prevents new damage; niacinamide and vitamin C are useful supporting ingredients.
| Ingredient | Real effect | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Retinol or prescription retinoid | Smoother fine lines, more collagen | Randomised trials |
| Broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30+ | Prevents sun-driven collagen loss | Strong; Mayo Clinic advice |
| Niacinamide, vitamin C | Supports skin tone and texture | Recommended by Mayo Clinic |
| Moisturiser | Softens dryness lines | Traps water in the skin |
| Peptide blends such as Volufiline | Claimed volume effect | No independent evidence found |
The 2007 Archives of Dermatology study treated the arms of 36 volunteers, average age 87, with 0.4% retinol or a plain lotion up to three times a week for 24 weeks. Fine wrinkle scores improved significantly on the retinol side, and biopsies showed more procollagen. It tested arm skin, not folds, but supports smile lines retinol use for skin quality. Mayo Clinic adds that over-the-counter adapalene and prescription retinoids are options, with results taking weeks to months.
Be wary of big claims. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says cosmetics don’t need approval before sale, and a product claiming to remove wrinkles or boost collagen would count as a drug. Moisturising claims, such as making lines less visible, are cosmetic. Korean skincare for smile lines often layers hydrating essences and sunscreen, which suits dryness lines. Whatever the routine, the active ingredient and daily sunscreen matter more than the number of steps.
Creams and patches
Smile lines patches and plumping serums can temporarily smooth the skin surface overnight, but the effect fades within hours of removal.
Silicone or hydrocolloid smile lines patches hold the skin flat and keep it hydrated while you sleep. We found no clinical study showing they change fold depth. Smile lines products containing hyaluronic acid draw water into the skin’s surface for a temporary plumping effect. A smile lines serum with a retinoid is the most useful single product to add.
In my practice, I suggest one retinoid at night and sunscreen every morning before spending on multiple specialised products. Patients usually notice smoother skin around the fold after three to six months.
Pigmentation in smile lines
Darkness around smile lines is often a shadow from the fold, but true pigmentation can come from sun, friction or irritation.
Check in even, front-facing daylight. If the darkness disappears when you gently stretch the skin, it’s a shadow, and treating the fold will help more than lightening creams. If brown colour stays, it’s smile lines pigmentation. Daily sunscreen is the first step; smoking also harms skin, and a twins study linked it with deeper folds. Vitamin C or niacinamide may help over months. Pigmentation that spreads, itches or changes quickly needs a doctor’s assessment.
For folds that skincare can’t change, see how to get rid of smile lines. To hide lines on the day, read our smile lines makeup guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQ
Answers on using retinol around the mouth, how long creams take, whether patches work and whether expensive creams are worth it.
Can I use retinol around my mouth for smile lines?
Yes, with care. Skin near the mouth and nose corners irritates easily. Start two or three nights a week with a pea-sized amount for the whole face, keep it off the lip edge, and moisturise. Don’t use retinoids if pregnant without medical advice.
How long does a smile lines cream take to work?
Usually several months. In the 2007 retinol trial, improvement was measured at 24 weeks. Mayo Clinic says results from wrinkle creams can take weeks to months. If nothing changes after six months of consistent use, the fold likely needs another approach.
Do smile lines patches work?
They can make skin look smoother the next morning by holding it flat and hydrated. The effect fades within hours, and we found no study showing they reduce fold depth. They’re a cosmetic short-term option, not a treatment.
Are expensive smile lines creams worth it?
Price doesn’t predict results. A basic retinoid, moisturiser and broad-spectrum sunscreen cover the ingredients with the strongest evidence. Claims of “filler in a jar” aren’t supported, since creams can’t replace lost volume under the fold.
If you’d like a skincare and treatment plan for your folds, you can book a consultation with Metropole Clinic by ABmedi. For causes and types, return to the smile lines hub.
This article is for general education and does not replace a personal medical consultation.
References
Show sources
- Kafi R, Kwak HSR, Schumacher WE, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606-612. pure.johnshopkins.edu
- Wrinkles: Symptoms and causes. Mayo Clinic. 2023. mayoclinic.org
- Hong GW, Song S, Park SY, et al. Why Do Nasolabial Folds Appear? Exploring the Anatomical Perspectives and the Role of Thread-Based Interventions. Diagnostics. 2024;14(7):716. mdpi.com
- Wrinkle Treatments and Other Anti-aging Products. US Food and Drug Administration. fda.gov
- Face it: Twins who smoke look older, says study in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Newswise. 2013. newswise.com
