How to Stop Makeup Creasing in Smile Lines

Smile lines makeup looks smoothest with less product, not more. Moisturise, use a smoothing primer, apply a thin layer of flexible foundation, press it in, then set lightly with fine powder only where creasing starts. Blot and re-press during the day. Makeup can soften the look of the fold but won’t hide a deep one, which may need treatment instead.

This tutorial is part of our smile lines overview.

Prep

Smile lines makeup starts with hydrated, smooth skin, because product settles into dry or flaky creases first.

1. Moisturise: apply a lightweight moisturiser and wait two to three minutes. Mayo Clinic notes that moisturising traps water in the skin, which softens dryness lines.
2. Prime: press a small amount of smoothing primer into the fold with a fingertip, without rubbing.
3. Protect: in the morning, put sunscreen on before primer. Sun protection also slows the deepening of folds over time, and a twins study linked smoking with deeper folds.

The fold forms where looser cheek skin meets firmly attached skin around the mouth, according to a 2024 anatomy review. Every smile pushes product into that line, so the aim is flexibility, not full coverage.

Foundation

Choose a thin, flexible smile lines foundation such as a serum or skin tint, and build coverage only where you need it.

1. Apply a small amount to the centre of the face and blend outward.
2. Over the fold, use what’s left on the sponge rather than adding more.
3. Press with a damp sponge instead of dragging a brush.
4. Smile once and gently press again to work out any creases.
5. Use concealer sparingly; a slightly lighter shade in the fold can lift the shadow, but thick layers crack.

Heavy matte formulas often look worse in smile lines with makeup because they can’t move with your expression.

Setting

Set smile lines in makeup with a light dusting of finely milled powder, pressed on after a short wait, never a thick layer.

Wait a few minutes for foundation to settle, then smile and press out any lines. Dust a small amount of fine powder only on the fold and the area beside the nose with a small brush. Finish with a light setting spray if your skin is dry. Too much powder is the most common reason makeup cakes in the fold.

Fix creasing

To fix smile lines crease makeup during the day, blot oil, press the product back in with a fingertip and add no extra powder.

Here’s how to keep makeup from creasing in smile lines through the day:

• Carry blotting paper and a clean, slightly damp sponge.
• Blot, then tap the crease with a fingertip or sponge to smooth it.
• If skin looks dry, press a drop of moisturiser over the area first.

Some people search for ways to get rid of smile lines makeup can’t reach. Makeup only changes how light falls on the fold; the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) treats products that make lines less visible as cosmetics, not treatments. If yours is deep at rest, see how to get rid of smile lines. After laser treatment, the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS, US) suggests oil-free, green-based makeup to tone down pink skin once healed. In my practice, I tell patients to skip makeup on injection points for the rest of the treatment day; the next morning a light routine is usually fine.

If makeup no longer hides your folds, you can book a consultation with Metropole Clinic by ABmedi. For causes and treatment options, return to the smile lines hub.

This article is for general education and does not replace a personal medical consultation.

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